A lacy little sweater

I made this sweater for Little Miss Z a couple of years ago. I never posted the pattern.
Note: I am not perfect, please let me know if there are any errors.

Lacy Baby Sweater Pattern

200-220 yards worsted

Size 9 needles-circular and dpn’s for i-cord (I use a crochet hook )

No gauge- babies grow

2 buttons- 3/4-1 inch

Sl1-slip as if to purl w/yarn in front move yarn to back after slipping.

Cast on 48

Slipping the 1st stitch of each row:

Knit 4 ridges in garter (8rows)

Set up row: sl1, k2, purl 4, pm, p1, pm, p7, pm, p1, pm, p16, pm, p1, pm, p7, pm, p1, pm, p4, k3

Raglan increases

Row 1: Sl1, [Knit until marker yo, k1, yo] 4x, knit to end.

Row 2: sl1, K2, purl to 3sts, knit

Continue until arm depth is what you need. I did 12 repeats.

Next row: continue in pattern but no increases in arm section.

Next, purl in pattern but knit for arm section.

Next row: sl1 knit- no increases

Next row: s1, K2, purl doing knit in arm sections, k3.

Do last two rows 2. Times

Separate for arms:  sl1 knit to marker and remove. Bind off arm section, k to next sleeve and repeat, knit to end.

Next row: sl1, k2, purl to open space, cast on 5 stitches, purl to next opening, cast on 5 stitches, purl to last 3 stitches and k3

Body:

Should be wrong side row:

Row 1: sl1, knit

Row 2: sl1, knit

Row 3: sl1, K2 purl to last 3sts, k

Row 4:sl1, K2, [yo, k2tog] to last 3 sts, k

Row 5: sl1, K2 purl to last 3sts, k

Row 6: sl1, knit

Row 7: sl1, K2 purl to last 3sts, k

Row 8: sl1, knit

Row 9: sl1, knit,

Next row should be a right side row:

Feather & fan (11+2 st repeat):

Row 1:sl1, knit

Row 2: sl1, K2, purl to last 3, k

Row 3: sl1, [(k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1)3x, yo,(k2tog)2x] around to last stitch, k.

Row 4: sl1, k2, purl to last 3, k

Row 5: sl1, knit

Row 6: sl1, knit

Repeat 2-6,  4 times  ending on a wrong side row.

Border: sl1, knit garter for 4 ridges. Bind off loosely on right side row.

Button loops

At top pick up stitches of 1st 3 slipped stitches and do a 1.5 inch I-cord, attaching to next two slipped stitches. Drop down 1 stitch and repeat for second button.

Sew on buttons.

Weave in all ends. Wash and block.

Ravelry project page

Operation Kid Cuddle

Operation Kid Cuddle
When military members are called to duty, children are left behind without a one, or sometimes both parents. This blanket was designed to help the child have something to snuggle with until they can be held in the arms of love.

Shells of love blanket

Hook size J
Worsted Weight yarn. I used Caron 1 pound, about 3/4 of a skein or 600 yards
Gauge not important.

Special stitch:
Picot at top of sc: Chain 3 and ss to same sc.

Chain 74

Set up row: In 5th ch from end 5 dc,[skip 2 ch, sc in next ch, skip 2 ch, 5 dc in next chain] to last three chains skip two and dc in last chain. chain 4 turn

Row 2: [Sc in third dc of shell, ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2] across to last stitch dc in 2nd ch of turning stitch. Ch 2 turn

Row 3: [5 dc in sc, sc in dc] across to last stitch dc in 2nd ch of turning stitch, Ch 4 turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 for 24 repeats finishing with row 2 – 25 shell rows.

Begin border

Note: along side on border, work in the space provided by the dc or the ch 2 of the beginning or end of row as presented.

Round 1: Sc in each stitch across, 3 sc in corner stitch. Continue up side edge with 2 sc in each end stitch 3 sc in corner. Sc in each stitch across beginning row, 3 sc in corner. Continue up side edge with 2 sc in each end stitch 2 sc in same stitch as the beginning sc and ss to 1st sc.

Round 2: Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc. Repeat around making sure one sc is in the middle stitch of each corner. Ss to 1st ch of beginning chain loop.

Round 3: Ch 5, 2 dc in same stitch [ch 2, sc in ch loop (ch 3, sc in next ch loop) to loop before next corner, ch 2 (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner] Repeat to beginning ch 5 and dc in same stitch. Ss to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5.

Round 4: Ss to ch space of corner, ch 1, (2 sc, picot, sc) in same stitch, [*Ch 3 sc in next ch loop* Repeat to next corner,(2 sc, picot, sc)] two more times. *Ch 3 sc in next ch loop* Repeat to next corner, SS to 1st sc of round and finish off.

If you find anything wrong with this pattern, please contact me.

Usage: This pattern maybe used for personal use or for charity. Please do not sell items from this pattern without contacting me for permission.
20090419
edit 5/1 Thank you to all who tested this pattern for me.

My Vanilla Socks

Most of you know I love to knit socks.
I may not be the fastest knitter nor the one with the most patterned socks, but I do love to let the yarn do the work and make a beautiful plain vanilla sock.

I have had a couple of PM's in the last week or so about what formula I use to make socks the most, or what would I suggest to a newer sock knitter.
Tonight I decided to post it here, in case anyone else wants to :) it is not my " pattern" more a way of making socks that you can play with as you want. Change the heel and toe as you want, add patterns to the top, whatever, this is just a basic sock.

I use size 2 needles for most socks, but that also depends on what your fabric looks like and if you are happy.
Here is what I do:
Cast on 64, over two needles for stretchiness, remove 2nd needle spread over 4 needles ( Dpn's) or 2 needles (2 circs)
Do 2x2 rib for and inch or so
Knit for 4 inches, add waste yarn to 1/2 of stitches for after thought heel
knit those stitches again with main sock yarn and continue to knit until about 3 inches shorter than the length of your foot.
Start star toe decreases.
(knit 14, k2tog) 4x
knit 1 row even
(knit 13,k2tog) 4x
knit 1 row even
(knit 12, k2tog) 4x
Knit one row even
Continue these two rows until 8 (dpn) / 16(circs) stitches on each needle.
Then decrease every row for 4 rows. ( total of 16 stitches left)
Break yarn and put on needle, thread through all 16 stitches and pull up tight.
Run the needle through all stitches again and pull to inside of sock to bind off toe.

Pull out waste yarn for heel and pick up 32 stitches from top, 2 in corner, 32 from bottom and 2 in the other corner for a total of 68 stitches.
Knit a round even.
Mark beginning.
(K1, ssk, k 28, k2tog, k1) 2x
Knit a row even
(k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1) 2x
knit a row even
continue this, decreasing 1 stitch in from each side of heel top and bottom, until you have 8 (dpn) /16 (circ) stitches on each needle.
You will then do a Kitchener graft (not as hard as people make it out to be) to close the bottom of the heel.
Make 2nd sock.
Weave in all ends securely and wash/block socks.

Little Sock Bag

Wow, thank you all for the response on the little bag I made. I have written up the pattern and have a couple testers for it. I will make changes as needed. If you crochet it up and find a mistake or a better way of wording it, please let me know.

Edit 8/17/08


Little Sock Bag


This is a small bag that is a good size to throw over your wrist while sock knitting. It holds one cake of sock yarn.

1.5 balls kitchen cotton, I used Sugar and Cream
G hook
Tapestry needle
Button
Split ring marker

Bag:
Ch 4 and join into a ring.
Rnd 1: 9 sc in ring do not join, you will work in rounds, mark the beginning of round.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc, (18 Sts.)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following * repeat around, (27 Sts.)
Rnd 4: sc around even
Rnd 5: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in following* repeat around, (36 Sts.)
Rnd 6: * 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in following* repeat around, (45 Sts.)
Rnd 7: sc around even
Rnd 8: * 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in following* repeat around, (54 Sts.)
Rnd 9: * 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in following* repeat around, (63 Sts.)
Rnd 10: work 1 sc in every sc around
Rnd 11: BPsc in each sc around
Rnd 12-14: Sc in each st around
Rnd 15-25: *Sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, *
Rnd 26: Sc in each stitch and ch 1 around.
At end of rnd 26 join to 1st sc of rnd with ss.

Handle:

Row 1: Ch 1 and sc in next 12 Sts.
Row 2: ch1, turn, sc across 11 stitches
Row 3: ch 1 turn, sc2tog in next st, sc across to last 3 Sts, sc2 tog, 1 sc in last st. (10 Sts.)
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until 6 Sts remain.
Sc even for 17 rows (or as long as you need it to fit over your wrist)
Increase row 1: Ch 1 turn, 2 sc in next st, sc to last 2 Sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last.
Increase row 2: Ch 1 turn, sc across.
Repeat these two rows until 12 stitches, sc one row even.
Break yarn and join to opposite side of bag even with other side of handle.
Edge the handle evenly with sc on both sides. *You will be doing both handle and bag edging.*

Button Flap:

Figure middle between one side of handle loop.
Move your hook 2 sc to the right and join yarn.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 5 Sts.
Row 2: Ch 1 turn, sc across.
Row 3-11: Repeat row 2
Row 12: Ch 3 turn, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc (creating 3 holes, the center one will become your button hole)
row 13: ch1 turn, sc across to other corner, 3 sc in corner sc and continue up sides to form edging. sc through the center hole created by your dc to form button hole, continue…….ss across….ch1 sc up to other side and sc through the center hole created by your dc, continue sc….. When you reach the beginning row of sc- join, move to the back of the flap and ss across to make the join more solid. Ch 1 and Sc up other side of flap again forming buttonhole where dc’s were made before. 2 sc in same st as beginning ch 1 and join with ss. Finish off.

Attach button in place and weave in all ends.

When tested by Sydneyknits on Ravelry, she made a crocheted button for her bag. Here is how she did that:

Crochet button:

Ch2, 8 sc in second ch, ss into 1st ch, then 16 sc into center hole. attach to piece.
Here is a photo of Sydney's bag:
She added a cute daisy on it.

After a few people posted to me that the bag was coming out larger than stated, I crocheted up another one. I agreed and re-did the base of the bag. I am sorry for any inconvenience this has caused.
KaRi